Finalist 2024

Jordana Marks

Jordana Marks / Supervised by Joshua Riesel and Charlie Richardson

’Bioknit’ is a compostable, algae-based bioplastic top that redefines clothing consumption by offering sustainable, short-term fashion with minimal environmental impact.

This knitted top is handcrafted from algae-based bioplastic yarn. This piece addresses the negative behaviours surrounding clothing consumption, whilst accommodating the desire for self expression through fashion. Intentionally designed to only last a few wears, ‘Bioknit’ is completely biodegradable, providing peace of mind to consumers after disposal. The yarn was created by mixing sodium alginate, glutinous rice flour, glycerin, oil, and water, then extruded into a calcium chloride solution, where it instantly cured.

Design Brief:

The brief was to innovate by implementing new material findings into products or services, focusing on sustainability and material exploration. The challenge was to address the problem of traditional consumption patterns by creating a biodegradable product that emphasises circularity. The aim was to develop a sustainable, considerate artefact using at least one biomaterial, which involved creating custom biomaterial recipes and conducting thorough research. This included experimenting with different formulations and applications to refine material properties. Emphasis was placed on the end-of-life phase to ensure minimal environmental impact. The final artefact could be presented as a working prototype or high-quality 2D visualisations, supported by material tests and refined samples. The project aimed to showcase innovative, sustainable design practices, challenge conventional product typologies, and promote a shift towards circular consumption models, while contributing to the broader discourse on sustainable material use.


This project was developed by:

  • Jordana Marks
  • Supervised by Joshua Riesel and Charlie Richardson

Design Process

The project followed a meticulous design process, emphasising sustainability and material innovation. The primary aim was to create a biodegradable product that fosters circularity. The design process began with extensive research and experimentation to develop custom biomaterial recipes, ensuring the material properties were suitable for knitted apparel. Multiple rounds of testing and adjustment were conducted to create a yarn strong enough for knitting. The yarn was made from compost-friendly ingredients and hand-extruded via syringe into a solution, where it cured instantly before being dried and knitted into workable water resistant fabric. A step-by-step process was established for consistent yarn production, and the extrusion method was altered to achieve different yarn thicknesses.

Inspiration was drawn from organic and aesthetically pleasing knit patterns, guiding the design development phase. Ideation sessions explored various shapes and patterns, eventually narrowing down to a design that balanced simplicity and visual interest while accommodating the delicate nature of the yarn. The design process also considered the material’s functions, curating a top that would highlight the unique properties of the biodegradable yarn.

The final design was implemented by creating mockups and knitting samples to refine the shape and structure of the top. This process ensured the final product met the project’s sustainability goals and aesthetic standards. The project successfully met the design brief by integrating biomaterials into a sustainable, biodegradable product, highlighting circular consumption models, and challenging conventional product typologies. The final artefact showcased innovative design practices and contributed to the broader discourse on sustainable material use, thus exceeding the design brief’s expectations. Through a detailed and iterative process, the project demonstrated the potential for biomaterials in fashion, promoting a shift towards circular consumption models and sustainable design practices.

Design Excellence

This knitted bioyarn top, while still an evolving material, represents an innovative leap toward sustainable textile development. Although the yarn requires further refinement, the top’s primary role is to raise awareness and inspire future advancements in circular and sustainable materials. The design aims to spotlight the potential of circular textiles in fashion, offering a unique perspective on how sustainable clothing consumption can be reimagined. Its fashionable and stylish design demonstrates that individual expression through clothing can be maintained without compromising sustainability.

The top’s temporary nature, designed to be worn only a few times, addresses the urgent issue of fast fashion’s overconsumption and premature disposal, leading to an abundance in waste. This approach challenges the current societal behaviours of rapidly consuming and discarding clothing, especially for occasion-wear where items are often only purchased for one or two uses. The material itself has undergone recipe adjustments to ensure it is elastic, durable, water-resistant, and comfortable for wear, reflecting a commitment to practicality and comfort.

Crafted meticulously from scratch, through hand-extruded the yarn, the top exemplifies a dedication to craftsmanship and minimal energy consumption, which is increasingly rare in today’s fashion industry. Additionally, the design process eliminates off-cut waste, as the clothing pattern is knitted rather than cut from fabric sheet. As an initial prototype, it holds significant promise for future development with industry collaboration. This project not only sets a new standard for sustainable textile consumption but also aims to reshape industry practices and offer a new path for eco-conscious fashion.

Design Innovation

The ‘Bioknit’ project addresses a genuine problem within the fashion industry by offering an innovative solution to the challenges of short-term clothing use. Fast fashion’s emphasis on rapid production and short-lived garments leads to significant waste, with millions of items ending up in landfill and contributing to environmental degradation.

‘Bioknit’ utilises yarn made using sodium alginate, derived from renewable brown seaweed, and is designed to be biodegradable and compostable. Unlike traditional fashion garments, which are made to last long-term and often include synthetic fibres that inhibit decomposition, ’Bioknit’s’ design embraces the temporary nature of occasion wear. This approach caters to the prevalent consumer habit of buying clothing specifically for single-use occasions, such as formal events and music festivals.

The project is unique in its creation of garments intended for brief use, with a focus on ensuring that they can be composted or biodegraded safely at the end of their lifecycle.

By catering to the desire for stylish, short-term fashion while focusing on the entire lifecycle of the garment, ’Bioknit’ offers a responsible alternative that contrasts sharply with the durability and longevity typical of conventional fashion textiles.

This thoughtful integration of functionality, aesthetics, and sustainability provides a new opportunity in the fashion industry, demonstrating how design can effectively balance individual needs with broader environmental considerations.

Design Impact

The biodegradable, algae-based bioplastic yarn top promotes circular clothing consumption and sustainable material innovation.

By promoting the use of biomaterials and circular consumption models, the project challenges prevailing consumer behaviours surrounding clothing consumption. The temporary nature of the top aligns with current fast fashion habits, but ‘Bioknit’ is designed with the intention of only lasting a few wears, thereby mirroring the rapid turnover typical of modern wardrobes. This innovative approach allows consumers the freedom to express themselves through fashion without the negative environmental impact. By aligning the garment’s lifespan with existing consumption patterns, the project demonstrates how sustainable materials can transform the fashion industry, fostering a culture of sustainability and responsibility without sacrificing personal expression.

The incorporation of biomaterials in this top guarantees that it is 100% biodegradable and compostable, aligning with a circular product lifecycle. By utilising renewable resources like algae, the design minimises environmental impact from production to disposal. This approach not only reduces waste and conserves natural resources but also plays a crucial role in lowering the carbon footprint of the fashion industry, which is a major contributor to climate change and pollution. The project’s focus on sustainable materials and eco-friendly processes helps address these pressing environmental issues effectively.

Investing in a professional design process that promotes sustainability not only differentiates the project in the market but also sets a precedent for future fashion designs. This approach can enhance the reputation of the brand and attract environmentally conscious consumers. The project also highlights the economic benefits of sustainable practices, including potential cost savings in material disposal and the opportunity for new market growth in the eco-friendly sector.

Circular and Sustainability Criteria

This project demonstrates excellence within a world of circular and sustainable design. By leveraging sodium alginate from renewable brown seaweed and blending it with other natural ingredients, the project creates a garment that aligns with circular design concepts.

The design process ensures that the ‘Bioknit’ top is crafted with minimal waste. Its innovative approach includes a clothing pattern that is knitted into shape, avoiding the generation of surplus material.

At the end of its life, the top can be composted or disposed of in green waste bins, where it will decompose within weeks, demonstrating a positive and thoughtful end-of-life impact.

This project represents a pioneering effort in the fashion industry, offering a new method of designing and producing clothing that supports circularity. By focusing on the intentional short-term use of garments, it challenges traditional notions of durability and encourages a shift towards more sustainable consumption practices.

The Bioknit project not only provides a sustainable biomaterial solution but also redefines how society approaches design, promoting a more regenerative and circular fashion industry. Its alignment with these principles makes it a valuable example of how design can drive environmental and societal progress, worthy of recognition for its innovative contributions.

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